Princess Cut Engagement Rings
Princess cut engagement rings offer something no other diamond shape can: the brilliance of a round diamond in a bold, contemporary square outline. The princess cut is a modified brilliant cut, meaning its facets are arranged to maximise sparkle and fire in the same way as a round brilliant, but within a striking square or near-square silhouette. It is the most popular square diamond engagement ring shape in the world, and the second most popular diamond shape overall.
Every princess cut engagement ring in our collection is handcrafted individually in platinum or 18ct gold, set with a certified lab-grown or natural diamond. Browse our designs below and use the configurator to see live pricing for your preferred metal and carat weight.
The History of the Princess Cut
The princess cut diamond was developed in the 1960s and 1970s through a series of innovations by different diamond cutters seeking a square shape that could rival the round brilliant for sparkle. The cut as we know it today is most commonly attributed to Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, who refined the design in 1980 into a square modified brilliant with 57 or 76 facets, depending on the cutting style.
The name “princess cut” was a marketing masterstroke. Earlier square brilliant cuts existed under names like the “profile cut” and the “quadrillion,” but none captured the public imagination the way the princess cut did. By the 1990s it had become the most popular fancy shape diamond in the world, and it remains a firm favourite today. Its combination of modern geometry and brilliant-cut sparkle fills a gap that no other shape occupies.
Why Choose a Princess Cut Diamond?
The princess cut diamond is one of the few shapes that delivers genuine brilliance in a non-round outline. Where step cuts like the emerald and Asscher produce a calm, lustrous hall-of-mirrors effect, the princess cut behaves like a brilliant cut. Its facet pattern breaks light into the same flashes of white brilliance and coloured fire that make the round brilliant so popular, but in a distinctly modern square form.
The square diamond engagement ring also offers excellent value. The princess cut retains more of the original rough diamond during cutting than almost any other shape, which means less material is wasted and the cost per carat is typically lower than a round brilliant of the same quality. For those who want maximum sparkle without the premium that comes with a round diamond, the princess cut is a smart choice.
On the finger, the princess cut’s sharp corners and clean lines create a geometric, architectural look that suits modern settings beautifully. It is equally at home in a clean solitaire as it is in a halo, a hidden halo, or a three stone princess cut engagement ring with tapered baguettes or matching princess-cut side stones.
Princess Cut vs Round Brilliant: How Do They Compare?
Both the princess cut and the round brilliant are brilliant-cut diamonds designed to maximise sparkle. The round brilliant remains the benchmark for light performance because its symmetrical shape allows light to return through the top of the stone with maximum efficiency. The princess cut comes remarkably close, but its square geometry means light behaves slightly differently, producing a different pattern of brilliance and scintillation.
Where the round brilliant produces an even, symmetrical sparkle, the princess cut creates a more cross-shaped light pattern known as a chevron pattern. This gives the princess cut diamond ring a distinctive look that many people find more interesting and dynamic than the round’s uniform flash. It is not better or worse, just different.
The other significant difference is price. Because the princess cut retains roughly 80% of the rough diamond compared to around 40% for a round brilliant, princess cut diamonds are typically 20-30% less expensive than rounds of equivalent quality. With lab-grown princess cut diamonds, this difference means you can often step up to a noticeably larger stone.
What to Look For in a Princess Cut Diamond
The princess cut is classified as a fancy shape, on GIA diamonds grading reports and dossiers this is referred to as a square modified brilliant cut. Unlike the round brilliant, where an Excellent cut grade does the work for you, choosing a princess cut diamond ring requires careful visual assessment of the stone’s proportions, symmetry, and light performance because the cut grade is not designated on certification. We evaluate every princess cut diamond individually before presenting it.
Symmetry and squareness are the first things to assess. A well-cut princess diamond should appear square from above, with a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. Ratios above 1.05 start to look noticeably rectangular, which changes the character of the stone entirely. If you prefer a slightly rectangular princess cut, that is a valid choice, but it should be deliberate rather than accidental.
Chevron pattern refers to the V-shaped facets on the underside of the stone. A princess cut diamond can have two, three, or four chevron facets per side. Fewer chevrons (two per side) create broader, bolder flashes of light. More chevrons (four per side) produce a more scintillating, crushed-ice appearance with smaller, more numerous sparkles. Neither is objectively better. It is a matter of personal taste, and we can help you find the pattern you prefer.
Depth and table affect how much of the stone’s weight you actually see face-up. A depth percentage between 65% and 75% and a table between 67% and 72% tend to produce the best balance of brilliance and visible size. Stones with excessive depth carry hidden weight that does not contribute to the diamond’s appearance on the finger.
Colour and clarity deserve extra attention with the princess cut. The sharp corners of a princess cut diamond can concentrate colour, meaning a slightly tinted stone may show warmth more visibly in the corners than in the centre. We recommend D to F colour for the cleanest appearance. For clarity, VS2 or above ensures the diamond is eye-clean. All our lab-grown princess cut diamonds are graded to D-E colour, VS1-VVS1 clarity.
Protecting the Corners
The princess cut’s four sharp, pointed corners are its most distinctive feature, but they are also its most vulnerable. Unlike the cushion cut, which has rounded corners, or the emerald cut with its cropped corners, the princess cut’s points are exposed and can chip if struck at the wrong angle.
This is why the setting design matters as much as the stone itself. Every princess cut engagement ring we make uses a four-prong setting with V-shaped corner prongs that protect each point. These prongs cup the corners securely without covering too much of the diamond’s face. It is a small detail that makes a real difference to the long-term durability of your ring, and it is something we build into every princess cut design from the outset.
Princess Cut Diamond Sizes: What to Expect
Because the princess cut carries more of its weight in its depth than a round brilliant, the face-up measurements can be slightly smaller than you might expect for a given carat weight. Here is how common sizes translate to approximate measurements:
1 carat princess cut diamond measures approximately 5.5 x 5.5mm. A refined, elegant size that works beautifully in any setting style and is one of the most popular choices for a 1 carat princess cut diamond ring.
1.5 carat princess cut diamond measures approximately 6.2 x 6.2mm. A noticeable step up in presence. A 1.5 carat princess cut engagement ring is increasingly popular, particularly with lab-grown diamonds where the price makes this size very accessible.
2 carat princess cut diamond measures approximately 6.9 x 6.9mm. At this size, the princess cut’s geometric lines and brilliant sparkle become truly striking. A 2 carat princess cut diamond ring is one of our most requested configurations in lab-grown diamond.
3 carat princess cut diamond measures approximately 7.8 x 7.8mm. A statement size that commands attention. The square outline of a 3 carat princess cut diamond gives it a bold, confident presence on the hand. We source 3 carat princess cut diamonds to order. Contact us for availability and pricing.
4 carat princess cut diamond measures approximately 8.6 x 8.6mm. With lab-grown princess cut engagement rings, a 4 carat stone has become achievable for many customers. The cost-effectiveness of lab-grown diamonds means that what was once an exceptional luxury is now within reach.
Certification: Lab-Grown and Natural Princess Cut Diamonds
Every natural diamond we set in our princess cut engagement rings is certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world’s most respected independent grading authority. Our lab-grown princess cut diamonds are certified by either the GIA or the International Gemological Institute (IGI), both of which provide an objective assessment of the diamond’s colour, clarity, and carat weight, along with a unique report number that can be verified online.
Lab-grown princess cut diamonds are chemically, optically, and physically identical to natural diamonds. They are graded to the same standards and display the same brilliance and fire. The difference is origin, grown in a controlled environment rather than mined from the earth, and price, with lab-grown diamonds typically offering significantly more size and quality for your budget.
Natural princess cut diamonds carry the romance of geological rarity, each one formed over billions of years deep within the earth. We source natural diamonds to your exact specification with a no-obligation quote, ensuring the colour, clarity, and proportions meet our standards before we present the stone to you. Contact us to discuss natural diamond options.
Our Princess Cut Engagement Ring Styles
Each design in our collection is available with a princess cut diamond. Whether you prefer the clean geometry of a princess cut solitaire engagement ring, the subtle detail of a hidden halo, the sparkle of a princess cut halo engagement ring, the timeless balance of a three stone princess cut ring, or the character of a vintage setting, you can configure any of our rings with a princess centre stone. Select a design above to start building your ring, or book a consultation to discuss your perfect princess cut engagement ring.
Is a square diamond the same as a princess cut?
Not exactly. “Square diamond” is a general term that could refer to several different cuts, including the princess cut, the Asscher cut, and the radiant cut (when cut to square proportions). The princess cut is the most popular square diamond shape and the one most people picture when they search for square diamond engagement rings or square cut engagement rings. If you are looking for a square diamond with maximum sparkle, the princess cut is the right choice. If you prefer a square step cut with a calmer, mirror-like lustre, consider the Asscher cut.
How much does a princess cut engagement ring cost?
Our princess cut engagement rings start from around £1,500 for a lab-grown diamond in a solitaire setting. Price depends on your chosen carat weight, metal, and setting style. Because the princess cut retains more rough diamond during cutting, it typically costs less per carat than a round brilliant of equivalent quality. Use the configurator on any product page to see live pricing, or contact us for a natural diamond quote.
Is a princess cut diamond more affordable than a round?
Yes, typically 20-30% less for the same carat weight and quality. The princess cut retains roughly 80% of the original rough diamond compared to around 40% for a round brilliant, which means less waste and a lower cost per carat. With lab-grown princess cut diamonds, this price advantage means you can often afford a noticeably larger stone than you would with a round.
What is the difference between a princess cut and a cushion cut?
Both are popular square-shaped diamonds, but they look quite different. The princess cut has sharp, pointed corners and a geometric, angular appearance. The cushion cut has softly rounded corners and a pillow-like shape. In terms of light performance, the princess cut produces crisper, more defined flashes of brilliance, while the cushion cut tends to create a softer, warmer sparkle. The choice comes down to whether you prefer sharp modern lines or gentle, rounded edges.
Do princess cut diamonds look smaller than round diamonds?
A princess cut diamond can appear slightly smaller face-up than a round of the same carat weight because more of its weight sits in the depth of the stone. However, the square outline gives it a distinctive visual presence that compensates. A 1 carat princess cut measures approximately 5.5mm across compared to 6.5mm for a round, but the angular shape creates a bold, geometric impression that many people prefer.
What is the best setting for a princess cut diamond?
The most important consideration is corner protection. Every princess cut engagement ring should use V-shaped prongs that shield the four pointed corners from chipping. Beyond that, the princess cut suits almost every setting style. A four-prong solitaire shows maximum diamond, a halo adds size and sparkle, a hidden halo keeps the clean lines while adding a secret detail underneath, and a three stone setting with tapered baguettes creates a timeless Art Deco feel.
How many facets does a princess cut diamond have?
A princess cut diamond typically has 57 or 76 facets, depending on the number of chevron (V-shaped) facets on the pavilion. A two-chevron princess cut has 57 facets and produces broader flashes of light. A four-chevron princess cut has 76 facets and creates a more scintillating, crushed-ice sparkle. Neither is better. It is a matter of personal preference, and both deliver impressive brilliance.
What is the difference between lab-grown and natural princess cut diamonds?
They are identical in every physical and optical property: same hardness, same brilliance, same fire. The difference is origin. Lab-grown diamonds are created in a controlled environment, natural diamonds are mined from the earth. Natural princess cut diamonds are GIA certified, while lab-grown are certified by either GIA or IGI. Lab-grown princess cut diamonds typically cost significantly less than natural equivalents of the same specification.