Speculum Asscher Diamond Ring

About This Design

The Asscher cut diamond ring is one of the most architectural styles in our collection, and the Speculum is our vintage interpretation of it. The name comes from the Latin for “mirror,” a reference to the hall-of-mirrors effect that makes the Asscher cut so mesmerising. A step-cut centre stone flanked by two tapered baguettes, all set in platinum. Every element in this ring is a step cut, every facet a long, clean line. The result is a vintage Asscher cut diamond ring that draws on the geometry of the Art Deco era without being a reproduction of anything.

The tapered baguettes narrow as they approach the centre stone, drawing the eye inward toward the Asscher’s concentric facet pattern. The three stones share the same optical language, broad flashes of light and dark contrast, calm lustre rather than sparkle, and a quiet intensity that rewards close attention. It is a ring for someone who prefers depth over flash.

Design Details

The Asscher cut centre stone sits in a claw setting, with each claw positioned to secure the diamond while leaving its cropped corners and full face visible from above. The claws are kept deliberately fine so they do not interrupt the stone’s clean geometric outline.

The two tapered baguette side stones are bar set, held between slim bars of metal that run along their longer edges. Bar setting is the natural choice for baguettes. It keeps the stones secure without any claws breaking the line, and it allows the three diamonds to sit closely together in a continuous, uninterrupted row. The taper of the baguettes, wider at the centre stone and narrowing toward the band, creates a smooth visual transition between the Asscher and the shoulders.

The band is 2mm wide with a slight court profile, gently rounded on the inside for comfort while maintaining a clean appearance on the outside. The proportions are balanced so the three-stone arrangement reads as a single, unified design rather than three separate elements.

A straight wedding band will sit flush against the Speculum. The setting height and baguette positioning are calibrated so that no shaped or contoured wedding ring is needed, unless you prefer that look.

Art Deco Heritage

The Asscher cut was born in 1902 and rose to prominence during the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s, when clean geometry, symmetry, and architectural precision defined jewellery design. The combination of an Asscher cut diamond with tapered baguettes is one of the most iconic Art Deco arrangements, and it remains one of the most elegant ways to frame a step-cut centre stone. The Speculum is not an antique Asscher cut diamond ring, but it is designed with the same principles that made Art Deco jewellery timeless: every line is deliberate, every proportion considered, and nothing is there for decoration alone.

Your Diamond

The Speculum is available with both lab-grown and natural Asscher cut diamonds, so you can choose the stone that best reflects your values and budget.

Our lab-grown diamonds are graded to D or E colour with VS1 to VVS1 clarity. Lab-grown diamonds are chemically, optically, and physically identical to mined diamonds. They are real diamonds, certified independently by the IGI or GIA. Clarity matters more in an Asscher cut than in most other shapes because the open step facets hide very little, which is why we hold our lab-grown Asscher diamonds to a high standard.

For natural Asscher cut diamonds, we source stones individually to match your requirements. The Asscher does not receive a formal cut grade from the GIA, so we assess every stone’s symmetry, proportions, and light performance ourselves. We pay particular attention to windowing, where light passes straight through the centre of a poorly proportioned stone rather than reflecting back. The tapered baguette side stones are natural diamonds, matched to the centre stone for colour so all three read as one. Get in touch to request a natural diamond quote.

How It Works

Use the configurator above to build your Speculum exactly as you want it. Select your preferred metal and pick your carat weight. The price updates live as you configure.

If you would prefer a natural diamond, a carat weight outside the standard ranges, or have any other specific requirements, get in touch.

Crafted by Hand

Every Si Vis Amari ring is handcrafted individually and hallmarked in accordance with UK law. The Speculum is made specifically for you by experienced craftspeople who understand that every piece tells a story.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why tapered baguettes with an Asscher cut?

Tapered baguettes are step cuts, just like the Asscher. All three stones share the same optical character: broad flashes of lustre rather than the sparkle of brilliant cuts. This creates a unified, harmonious design where the side stones complement the centre diamond rather than competing with it. The taper also draws the eye inward toward the Asscher’s concentric facet pattern, reinforcing the hall-of-mirrors effect.

Will a straight wedding ring sit flush with the Speculum?

Yes. The Speculum is designed so that a straight wedding band sits flush against the engagement ring with no gap. The setting height and baguette positioning are calibrated during the design stage to ensure compatibility. You do not need a shaped or contoured wedding band unless you prefer that look.

Why does clarity matter more in an Asscher cut?

The Asscher cut’s large, open step facets act like windows into the stone. Unlike brilliant cuts where many small facets scatter light and mask inclusions, the Asscher cut hides very little. An inclusion that would be invisible in a round diamond can be clearly visible in an Asscher. We recommend VS2 clarity or above for an eye-clean stone, and we visually inspect every Asscher cut diamond before setting it in the Speculum.

Can I choose my own Asscher cut diamond for the Speculum?

Yes. If you have a specific Asscher cut diamond in mind, whether a particular carat weight, a natural stone, or a family diamond you would like us to set, we can accommodate that. We will match the tapered baguette side stones to your centre diamond for colour so all three sit together naturally. Contact us to discuss your requirements.

Is the Speculum an Art Deco engagement ring?

The Speculum is a modern ring designed with Art Deco principles. The Asscher cut itself was created in 1902 and became one of the defining diamond shapes of the Art Deco era. Pairing it with tapered baguettes in a bar setting is a classic Art Deco arrangement. The Speculum is not an antique or reproduction, but it shares the same commitment to clean geometry, symmetry, and architectural precision that defined Art Deco jewellery at its best.